Suggested trips around the area:

You are situated in the beautiful Bay of Audierne. This has some of the best beaches in Brittany. Here are some suggestions for days out:

1. Start by exploring the immediate area around the house. Leave the house and turn right out of the gate and walk toward the harbour (you can see the water in front of you). Before you reach the harbour turn left for the church and into the Rue Juliene. Walk a little way along this road and you will see the path for the cliffs. Walk onto the cliff path and just keep walking, this path continues for many miles along the coast and down to the salt marshes. There are many beaches along this stretch. There is a café at Pors Poullan (about 3 miles walk from the house).

2. Walk from the house into Audierne along the beach (see earlier notes). Have a coffee and lunch in a creperie.

3. One of my most favourite walks is up the Goyen River to Pont Croix. Drive into Audierne and leave your car in the free car park in the Marina. Take the path from the car park past the Aquarium and you are on the river path. Follow this path (3 miles or so) up this beautiful river. It is a protected area for wildlife and there are information boards describing the area and the wild life as well as giving you cycle paths and other walks — all clearly detailed.

Pont Croix.

As you come into Pont Croix leave the river path when you see the first picnic tables on the riverside. Wind your way up through this ancient town that was once the capital city of Brittany. The lanes are beautiful and the ancient buildings speak of lives past. Keep walking (wear flat shoes and not leather soles as it is cobbled, hilly and slippery) up to the church square and into the market square. Here have a coffee at L’Assiette du Cap — the one with the decking. After coffee stroll the market place, see the churches and visit the Marquisat Breton Museum. There is a tourist information centre that tells you much about the town and area. Have lunch at Hotel Ty-Evan, Plat de Jour (plate/menu of the day) is 3 courses plus house wine and coffee for 10 Euros or treat yourself to something from their à la carte menu. You can either catch the bus back or walk back into Audierne.

4. Drive through Audierne having turned left at the bridge, park your car at the Hotel Roi Gradlon (have a look at their menu as you pass) and walk along the beach to Esquibien and follow the cliff path round the bay. This is wilder coastline than walk 1. Go as far as you wish. This path leads eventually to the Baie des Trépassés, the Pointe du Van and the Pointe du Raz, three of the most beautiful and awe inspiring spots on this coast line, all protected by the equivalent of our National Trust. I suggest you drive to these sites, as it would be a 10-12 mile walk, unless of course you are good walkers. The Pointe du Raz is very touristy. Park your car and ignore the tourist cafes and shops and just walk the area. You will enjoy it. You can, however, get a cheap lunch served quickly here.

5. On the sea front at Audierne you will see a ticket booth for tickets to the Ile de Sein.

Ile de Sein.

You buy your ticket here and then take the boat from the pier at Esquibien. This is a whole day out. This island is only 10 metres above sea level. It is very barren but historic; De Gaulle changed the course of the Second World War by using troops, many of them Bretons, from this Island. When you think of Breton weather it is amazing that people still live on this island. The streets and lanes in Plouhinec are named after men who fought with De Gaulle and died in battles planned on the Ile de Sein.

6. Take a whole day to drive to the Pointe du Van, Baie des Trépassés and the Pointe du Raz. Take a picnic and enjoy the wildness and beauty of this area.

Baie des Trépassés.

7. Take a trip to Douarnenez; this was a major town of the ‘Resistance Movement’ in the Second World War.

Douarnenez.

Traditionally a fishing town it is steeped in myth and history. Tour the harbour area and visit the largest boat museum in Europe; it is in the open air. Go on to Locranan, there are plenty of restaurants, cafes, boutiques, it is one of the most picturesque villages (small towns) in Brittany. Tourists love it.

8. No visit to this area would be complete without a visit to the historical capital city of Brittany, Quimper (Kemper in Breton).

Quimper.

Visit the wonderful indoor market — it is an education in itself, meander the old and ancient streets, while away the time at a café in the Cathedral Square, move to another for lunch. The chocolate shops are lovely. Walk the city walls. Visit the potteries, the art galleries and the museums. The best restaurants are in Quimper. These can be very expensive but there are many recommended that are very reasonably priced such as Le Jardin de l‘Odet on the Boulevard de Kerguelen; La Fleur de Sel near the potteries which specialises in light fish dishes; Creperie du Salle on the Rue du Salle, Place de Beurre; Les Acacias, 88 Boulevard Creac’h Gwen — a rural setting in the middle of the city, there is a pleasant terrace.

9. Take a drive through the forests to Concarneau—a lively, arty, fishing port with lovely bars and restaurants along the harbour (marina). Stop off at Benodet and see the beautiful harbour. You can take a cruise along the Odet River or just lie on the beach for a while. From here you can also experience the beaches of the Pointe de Mousterlin, view the Glénan Islands and Beg Meil. Here the fishermen sell their catch from the harbour. There are enchanting pine shaded beaches and creeks as well as clear views out to sea.

Shopping:

There are several small specialist shops in Audierne. As well as these there is an indoor market selling fish, cheese and fruit and vegetables. This closes at 12 Noon.
There is a very good green-grocer just around the corner from the indoor market with a variety of excellent fruit and vegetables.
On the sea front there is a quality bakers and patisserie. There are others in the town too, up past the indoor market.
There is a chemist on the main road just above the harbour as well as one in the town.
There are butchers and two delicatessens in the street behind the sea front.
The supermarkets (supermarche) are in Plouhinec. From the house drive to the main road and turn right at the traffic lights. About 2 kilometres up this main road you will find Intermarché — a major supermarket chain in France. They sell almost everything.
On the same site there is Vetimarché for clothes and Bricomarché — the French B&Q.
This area is known as the commercial centre and it is signposted on the main road. It is too far to walk from the house as it is all up hill! But, if you try it the views are beautiful.

Locranon under Bai de Tresapasse.

Eating:

My experience of eating in Audierne has been very mixed. For quick snacks, coffees, alcohol, there is a choice on the sea front but the best of these is the Quai Café. There is one pub in the market place.
The best creperie is about 3 miles away in Pont Croix, ‘L’Epoké’, and it is only open from Easter-September. I have not tried all the creperies so you may find a better one.
Crêpes are Brittany’s speciality along with shell-fish.
The best take away crêpes are to be found at the creperie in Rue Danton behind the market place.
The Restaurant Bar Breton on the waterfront is reasonably good but not cheap. You usually have to book.
Restuarant L'Lroise (3 star Michelin chef etc).
Hotel Kermoor: Pointe de Raz. One of the best in the area.
The Hotel Roi Gradlon has a good restaurant (at the far end of the harbour overlooking the beach) with a European menu but not cheap and you must book. Le Goyen (a large hotel on the seafront) is said to serve the best sea-food in Brittany but it is expensive.
The Côté Jardin restaurant on the hill to the right of the market place has a very varied menu and is reasonably priced.
Restaurant Jules Verne which has jazz on some evenings. Excellent food and wine.
Restaurant Ty Pin: Tel. 0298 94 00 56 at Plogastel-Saint-Germain 4km from Pluguffen on the D 40.
Hotel Restaurant Briez Armor at Penhors Plage: 29710 Pouldreuzic. Tel. 0298 51 52 53
You will need to book for all of these restaurants even the Café Quai from Easter onwards; especially for lunch or dinner.

Plouhinec is a working fishing village on the opposite bank to Audierne. Audierne is a busy fishing port set in the Goyen estuary with large merchant’s houses lining its banks. It has the largest lobster tanks in Europe and this port serves all of France with shellfish.

Plouhinec.

If you climb the steps behind the main street the old town is a maze of wonderful houses and lanes with terrific views over the harbour. The walk to Audierne from Plouhinec takes about 15 minutes. The easiest way is to cross the harbour by the fish shop along the path onto the beach. Walk along the beach until you come to steps up; these take you on to the bridge into Audierne. The tide does not prevent you doing this at any time of day.
Or, you can walk up the hill from the house to the main road via the harbour; walk up the side of the chemist and then down the road to the bridge. The bay of Audierne stretches for miles with many fishing villages, ports and beaches tucked into its rugged cliff sides.

Audierne.

Walking from the house along the cliffs you come to one tiny cove with a café, Pors Poulan (about 3 miles). This café houses Breton life. There are many bars and cafes along the waterfront. There is a small vegetable market on Wednesday morning and a full market on Saturday morning. Remember that the markets and shops open early and are all closed at 12 Noon. The French lunch-time is sacrosanct, tourists or no tourists. The shops re-open between 2.30 and 3pm until 7pm. All shops and many bars and cafes are closed all day on Monday.

The Fishermen’s church is only minutes from the house perched on the cliff top.

The Fishermen's Church.

It is delightful inside, simple with some beautiful stained glass windows: there is a photograph (by Liz Rolls) in the lounge of one of these windows. It is the hub of this community with simple services and a very good choir.

Concarneau.

10. Quimperlé Foret and the Foret (Forest) de Carnoet. This is a typical Breton historic town with a lovely road leading form the coast to the woods. The hiking path up the river Laita is worth a try. All these trips are possible by bicycle except of course the Ile de Sein. Cycle paths are clearly marked. You will need to buy a TOP 25 map of the area you want to explore (the French equivalent to Ordnance Survey - they are blue and can be found in most newsagencies - Maisons de la Presse, as it easy to get onto a picturesque road and then find it difficult to get back to a main road. These are just a few to tempt you, there are many more trips out — see the guides supplied in the accommodation. Enjoy exploring and have a lovely holiday.

Quimperlé Foret.

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